Nessler conducted his first experiments on his wife, Katharina Laible. These hot rollers were kept from touching the scalp by a complex system of countering weights which were suspended from an overhead chandelier and mounted on a stand. The process used about twelve 2-pound (0.9 kg) brass rollers and took six hours to complete. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) was applied and the hair was heated to 212 ☏ (100 ☌) or more for an extended period of time. The hair was wrapped in a spiral around rods connected to a machine with an electric heating device. His method, called the spiral heat method, was only useful for long hair. ![]() Previously, wigs had been set with caustic chemicals to form curls, but these recipes were too harsh to use next to human skin. The first public demonstration took place on 8 October 1905, but Nessler had been working on the idea since 1896. He used a mixture of cow urine and water. As shorter hair was improved in appearance by waving even more than long hair, it was only a matter of time before an improved form of waving appeared.Įarly 20th century advertisement for Nessler's permanent wave machine Nessler Īn early alternative method for curling hair that was suitable for use on people was invented in 1905 by German hairdresser Karl Nessler. At the same time, electricity, which had been introduced mainly for lighting and industrial use, began to be used for heating and the application of the electric motor at the small business and domestic level. This was not only a political gesture but a practical one, as women began to take over men's work due to the great shortage of labour during the First World War (see Suffragette). As the demand for self-determination grew among women, hair was shortened so that it did not pass the lower end of the neck. The flappers of the 1920s cut their hair short (the " bob") as a form of rebellion against tradition. Up until the 1920s long hair was standard for women. However, in spite of its drawbacks, forms of Marcel waving have persisted until today, when speedy results and low cost are important. Because of the high temperature used, the process tended to degrade the hair. Thus, Marcel waving produced a two-dimensional wave, by thermal means only and the change was produced by plastic flow of the hair, rather than by any chemical means. Skill using the wrist could produce slight variations of the wave. Each time the tongs were applied, they were moved slightly in a direction normal to the lock of hair, thus producing a continuous flat or two-dimensional wave. The procedure was to comb a lock of hair towards the operator, moving the comb slowly with one hand to maintain some tension, while applying the tongs to the hair successively down the lock of hair towards the point. The waving itself was safe if care was taken to keep the tongs away from the scalp. The tongs were generally heated over a gas or alcohol flame and the correct temperature was achieved by testing the tongs on a newspaper if the paper browned slightly it was about right. ![]() He devised a pair of specially manufactured tongs, in which one of the arms had a circular cross-section and the other a concave one, so that one fitted inside the other when the tongs were closed. The first person to produce a practical thermal method was Marcel Grateau in 1872. The same process is used for chemical straightening or relaxing, with the hair being flattened instead of curled during the chemical reaction. In the latter method, chemicals are applied to the hair, which is then wrapped around forms to produce waves and curls. Perms may be applied using thermal or chemical means. The curls may last a number of months, hence the name. Afro permanent on a male resident of Miami Beach in 1972Ī permanent wave, commonly called a perm or permanent (sometimes called a "curly perm" to distinguish it from a " straight perm"), is a hairstyle consisting of waves or curls set into the hair. ![]() The colors were achieved by adding pigments to the setting lotion. The hair is shorter even than in the 1920s, revealing the ears and neck. JSTOR ( February 2019) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message)įirst Prize won at the Hairdressing Fashion Show London, 1935, using an Icall permanent-waving machine.Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. ![]() This article needs additional citations for verification.
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